23 June, 2010

My Review


Solid Lens with Sharp Results

By Chris Biele from Oroville, WA on 6/22/2010

 

5out of 5

Pros: Works In 'A' Mode, Smooth Operation, Solid build, Tweak That Focal Plane

Cons: Loose Lock Knobs

Best Uses: Product shots, Food photography, Creative Portraiture

I bought this lens, against all logic and reason, to use as a creative portrait lens. Some may have chosen the 85mm, but I prefer the 45mm as it's closer to 50mm, my favorite length for capturing environmental portraits.

With the price of this lens being so high, I figure I'll have to do about 20 portrait sessions before I can even think about making any profit from it, but at least I'll learn a lot!

By skewing your focal plane you can completely change how the viewer sees your subject. People can be made to look miniature in their surroundings or you can focus the viewer's attention to one particular area of the the frame by making it the only area in focus.

The build quality of this lens is superb with a smooth aperture ring and a buttery smooth focus ring. That said, however, the lock knobs on the opposite sides of the tilt and shift knobs feel slightly loose and they don't do a good job of locking the lens in place.

Overall great quality and I'm looking forward to some great portrait and food sessions.

Tilted portrait w/ fp angled across face

thumbnail

Tags: Made with Product

(legalese)

22 June, 2010

My Review of Nikon D300S DX Digital D-SLR Camera, 12.3 Megapixel, Interchangeable Lens, Nikon U.S.A. Limited Warranty

Originally submitted at Adorama

Nikon D300S DX Digital D-SLR Camera, 12.3 Megapixel, Interchangeable Lens, Nikon U.S.A. Limited Warranty


Great camera with loads of features

By Chris Biele from Oroville, WA on 6/22/2010

 

5out of 5

Pros: Fast / Accurate Auto-Focus, Solid Build, Fast Shutter Speed, Easy To Use, High ISO Performance, Large Clear LCD, Good Image Quality, Highly Configurable, Quiet

Cons: No Manual Movie Mode, No One Hand ISO Adjust

Best Uses: Indoors/Low Light, Sports/Action, Weddings/Events

Describe Yourself: Semi-pro Photographer

I recently upgraded my camera from the Pentax K10d to this Nikon D300s and I am just as happy as I thought I would be. The Pentax had many pro features, but the Nikon feels and reacts more like a pro body.

Above all, I am extremely happy with the overall feel and speed of the D300s. I have only found a few situations in low light where the focusing struggled, but by changing the focussing mode from spot to dynamic I cured that problem. I love the dynamic 3D tracking. Another great feature is the three programmable buttons, although it would be nice to be able to adjust ISO by holding a button and turning a dial. I could do this with the Pentax and find it very difficult to press the Nikon's ISO button with my left hand without taking my eye from the viewfinder.

The LCD display is large and clear and the menus are logical and easy to read. The Info button really helps as well while finding your way around each menu item. I really recommend setting one of your function buttons to My Menu as well, as this will bring up the first item in your My Menu. My first item is the ISO menu for manually adjusting ISO and activating or deactivating auto ISO.

The LiveView and Movie features are not as good as I thought they would be. LiveView is good for holding the camera over your head to compose shots and for zooming in to manual focus, but you loose the image while using auto focus. I thought I could get around this by putting the camera in tripod mode for Contrast Detect AF, but I found they call it "tripod" mode for a reason, since it won't focus to save your life unless it's on a tripod.

The Movie feature is disappointing because there is no way to manually adjust your exposure while recording. Trying to record a subject with a very bright background resulted in an underexposed image. I hope this will be changed in a firmware upgrade.

Overall, extremely happy and really looking forward to working with this camera.

thumbnail

Tags: Made with Product

(legalese)

17 January, 2010

One Flash, Multiple Frames

Winter Sunset in Tarifa

I've dabbled in HDR a few times. One of my first posts on this blog was about HDR using RAW images from my Canon PowerShot point and shoot camera. I knew a lot less back then, but I certainly had the photography bug. The resulting image of that experiment, admittedly, looks like ass, but I took that experience and moved on 'poco a poco'. Now, if you look at my Flickr stream you will see a couple examples of my finer HDR work.

One thing I had yet to try was actually compositing an image out of multiple frames rather than using tone mapping. So, last month when I saw this funky abandoned structure in Tarifa I thought I would give it a go. It turned out to be easier and more fun than I had expected, but I couldn't have done it without one cool little trick. Keep reading to find out what that trick was.

Compositing vs. HDR

Now, some of you might be wondering "What is compositing?" Well, composite literally means to be made up of various elements. So compositing is the process of taking more than one picture and making one image out of the bits you want. But, how does this differ from HDR? Well, HDR uses something called tone mapping which 'maps' one set of colors to another. This allows you to choose between a wider set of color ranges to compensate for too-bright or too-dark regions in your scene. This means you can expose for both your sky and your foreground and get some really amazing colors.

When making an HDR image, you typically have a static scene, or else you get weird ghosting artifacts. When making a composite image it doesn't really matter, because you get to choose which parts of the frame get included. In my original pictures (19 used for this image) the pop of my flash can be seen at least six times, and yours truly appears more than once as well. And although some of the better HDR programs can compensate for this, I wouldn't have had as much control over the finer details without being able to mask areas like I was able to here.

How I Did It

I stumbled upon this scene while scrambling to catch the last of the sunset on our overnight
trip to Tarifa. Tarifa is the southern most tip of Continental Europe and juts right out there into the Atlantic, pointing towards Morocco. It's only 10 miles from the Moroccan coast and about 18 miles from Tangier, as the crow flies. It's also where they hold the kite surfing and wind surfing world championships. To say it's windy is an understatement, but luckily it wasn't windy on this winter day.


As you can see, the weather was hardly conducive to taking sunset pictures, so when we came across this monstrosity I thought "What the hell!" I promptly set up my tripod and
took some shots, exposing to the right while preserving my highlights. Here's an example of what I was getting with that straightforward approach with a before, straight out of the camera (only cropped), and after (processed in Aperture and Viveza).

I admit the sky certainly looked a lot better 5 minutes later when I took my composite images, but other than that I can see that the structure i
s lacking in detail. The diffused light doesn't really give me the detail I'm after. This was when I remembered my strobe. I knew I wasn't packing all that crap around for nothing! As Joe McNally says, your gear doesn't do you any good sitting back in the studio. I promptly pulled out my hot shoe flash, whacked on a radio trigger and called in my support. I had Ellie (my wife) press the shutter while I walked around aiming my strobe at certain areas on the structure. I tried getting some bursts a bit farther back, but I soon reached the distance limit of the Cactus V2s'.

The Trick to Making Great Composites Really Quickly

Here's a screen grab of the 19 images I used to make the composite. I opened all of them as 16 bit TIFFs, then copied each one and pasted them all into one single file one at a time.
As you can see, there's a bit of detail in each image, but none of them make a very good pic on
their own. So this is where one little trick can save you a lot of time. All I needed to do was set the blend layer of every layer (except bottom layer) to Lighter Color. Magically, all the lighter areas of all the layers were exposed. Then I went through each layer, created a mask and eliminated the areas I didn't want to show, such as myself, my flash and the areas where the clouds overlapped. Once I had my composite made I selected all layers and pressed Shift+Alt+Cmd+E (Replace Cmd with Control on Windows) to create one new layer from all the others. After saving I discarded all the previous layers and was left with one nice manageable layer. Also, deleting all the other layers dramatically reduced my file size which saved more than a few RPMs on my scratch disk.

From here I was able to create my typical adjustment layer masks to make local changes to the sky and the structure. A quick trip into Viveza and a final stop at Noise Ninja and I was now ready to save back into Aperture for the final touches.

I really like how this turned out and it almost seems a bit richer in tone than your average HDR. I think that's because I wasn't really messing with compensating for my shadows and highlights, I was just adding in touches of light where I wanted them on my subject.

What Would I Change?

If I were to go out and do something like this again, the first thing I would do is make sure to pop my flash in EVERY possible area within the frame. The bottom left corner in this image could have done with at least a bit of light, but I didn't realize this as I was looking through my pics on the back of the LCD. The other thing I would have done is fired my strobe through an umbrella. I did have the flash set to wide zoom, but I would have liked a lot more falloff at the edges of my beam of light which would have avoided some of the hot spots.

What do you think? Have you ever tried a composite image? Share in the comments, I'd love to see what everyone else is doing.

-CB